Gable Opens at the Hollywood Roosevelt With a Live-Fire Hearth and a Bulgogi Pizza

A hundred-year-old hotel, an 82-seat room around an open fire, and a pizza named for the corner of 6th and Wilshire.

Gable opened on Tuesday, August 18 in the ground-floor dining room at The Hollywood Roosevelt, and the timing is deliberate. The hotel is approaching its 100th anniversary, having opened in 1927, and Gable is named for Clark Gable, one of its most storied residents. The 82-seat room is built around a live-fire hearth.

The kitchen is led by culinary director Chris Flint, whose background runs through Maude and Eleven Madison Park, with Will Kelly as chef de cuisine alongside chefs Alvaro Vega and Elenor Schlegel. Chad Austin runs the bar, Parker Sprow leads the floor, and Studio Mai handled design direction. The restaurant describes itself as a neighborhood spot rather than a hotel restaurant, aimed at Angelenos as much as guests.

What to order

The pizzas are where the room shows its point of view. The 6th and Wilshire layers bulgogi, red sauce, kimchi and mozzarella for $26, the Catalina goes with little neck clams, creme fraiche, garlic and Meyer lemon at $29, and the Runyon is a straightforward pepperoni at $24.

From the wood fire, the half-chicken with corn puree and chanterelles runs $40, hanger steak with broccoli-cheddar pomme dauphine and sauce choron is $44, and a pork chop with anticucho glaze and grilled peach is $46. The grilled branzino arrives bossam-style at $72, served whole with scissors and lettuce cups for two to share. There is a dry-aged cheeseburger on a housemade bun at $28.

Pasta covers fennel cavatelli with mussels and clams at $27, smoked tomato agnolotti with sun golds and ricotta salata at $26, and pappardelle with duck ragu at $29. Snacks include tempura fried maitake with yuzu aioli at $19 and pizza crust bread sticks, either with pizza butter at $14 or with epoisses puree and red wine onion jam at $16. A fruits de mer platter runs $42 per person.

The bar

Cocktails hold at $20 to $22 and are grouped by intent rather than spirit: spirited, whimsical, bright and spiritless. Dirty Work is built on koji vodka and aquavit with olive three ways and creme fraiche. Yellow King runs tequila with yellow tomato, miso honey, stonefruit and basil. Jack Talk Thai combines tamarind cachaca and gin with peanuts, gochujang and miso. The zero-proof list is priced at $15 and includes Koffee Kong on espresso, banana water and tonic.

Desserts run $14 to $17 and each carries a suggested pairing, which is an unusual touch. The chevre basque cheesecake pairs with Cocchi Americano, and the chocolate edit pairs with a 10-year tawny port.

The room it took over

This address has turned over more than once. The ground-floor space most recently held Shirley Brasserie, the French room named for Shirley Temple, and before that the same floor housed Nancy Silverton's Italian steakhouse The Barish. The Roosevelt hosted the first Academy Awards in the Blossom Ballroom in 1929, and the David Hockney-painted Tropicana pool still sits out back.

Visiting

Gable is at The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028, in the flagship dining room just off the lobby, across from the TCL Chinese Theatre and steps from the Walk of Fame. Reach the restaurant at (323) 785-7000 or hello@gable.la.

• Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

• Parking: valet is $15 with validation for up to four hours.

• Transit: the Metro B Line stops at Hollywood and Highland, one block west.

• Private dining: the restaurant takes gatherings from small dinners to full buyouts.

Reservations are on OpenTable, the full menus and pricing are posted on Gable's site, and the restaurant posts on Instagram. More on the property is at The Hollywood Roosevelt.

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